OUTSIDE STORAGE TIPS

Should be stored fully charged. If your batteries allow water to be added, fill them prior to charging. You will lose a little water to evaporation during storage. Fill them up and charge them again before you hit the road. If you have more than one, they will perform better if they are the same age. If you are replacing a 12-volt coach battery consider two 6 volt golf cart batteries hooked in series or four 6 volt batteries to replace two 12 volt units. They cost a little more (more lead) but will last longer and perform better.

Help protect your rig from UV rays and wind-blown dust. The tighter you put them on the better. Loose covers will soon wear through at corners and grommets. Once a tear starts the wind will soon make it bigger, even un-repairable. If you notice the start of a tear, reach through and apply duct tape to the interior side of the fabric then do the same over the patch on the outside. It’s a quick fix and works well. Sharp corners (exhaust pipes, mirrors etc.) on your rig can be mitigated with an empty plastic bottle, cut to cover the corner and taped in place prior to covering. Most will last through two or three winters.

Are best stored with clean oil and filters. They will last longer. Particulates settle out during storage and coat the oil pan and other interior horizontal surfaces with sludge. Change oil while it is hot. Same goes for rear ends.

Can be refreshed. First drain and flush, then add ¼ cup of household bleach per every 15 gallons of capacity. Next, fill the tank ¾ to ⅞ full. Drive a little to mix it up. Run cold and hot water to get the solution through the water heater and water lines. Now drain everything and repeat the whole process with ¼ cup of baking soda per 15 gallons of water.

May lose their shape a little when the tanks are empty for a while (especially on an older rig). Flush them and open and shut the valve a few times, then leave them shut with a couple of gallons of water in the tank for a few days. The seals may drip at first, but after a couple of days should become watertight again.

Can get through a hole in your rig the size of a dime. They are after food, water and/or warmth. Do not keep food anywhere in your rig during storage. Plug any holes found. Steel wool, or even better, copper wool, can be used to close a crack and will keep the little buggers from chewing it bigger. During storage (especially over the winter) we like to set two traps, before and after, baited with a little piece of apple. Apple is still tasty even when dried out. When you open up after storage, if no mouse has been caught, you have none. If only one has been caught, you have probably killed the only one that gained entry. If you caught two, you need some more traps and bait. Poison will kill the mice alright but they may die in the rig and smell. If you must use poison, do it when you are confident a rain storm is coming. The poison dehydrates them. If it's raining they will go looking outside for a drink; dying there instead of in your rig.

Don’t be bashful. If it is near mealtime when we stop for gas or another service we always ask for the name and location of a good restaurant. Locals know where the food is good. When we get to the eatery, we ask the waitress if there is something nearby that we should see or do before we leave the area. Most people love to help and we have had some wonderful experiences that we would never have enjoyed, had we not just asked.

Once you locate your parking space on the site map you will see that most of our sites are slanted toward the traffic isles for easier backing. Drive by your site close (about 4 to 6 ft) from the left side of your rig. Stop when your rig’s back bumper is past the near corner of your site by a distance approximately equal to the distance from your rear axle to the very back of your rig. Cramp your steering wheel to the right and back SLOWLY, straightening the steering wheel SLOWLY as you go SLOWLY toward the site. Once the rear axle of your trailer passes closely by the near corner of the mouth of your site you will be turning your wheels to the left to SLOWLY follow the trailer in. If you jackknife or otherwise get crooked or to close to your neighbor, just SLOWLY straighten the rig out and finish backing in. Have someone keep an eye on your blind side and on the rear to stop you when necessary. You have as much time as you need. Go SLOW. Speed magnifies errors. Check out our "how to back in" video. We are happy to help you in person as well. Just call.

Will be required sooner or later. We always ask someone in the town where we are for a referral. The campground or state park you are going to is a good place to start. Parts stores will know a good mechanic and what he works on. If you are in a metro area, a dealership can be a good place to start. We have never been disappointed with this method.

Are made to be used. Sitting in one place during storage is hard on the sidewalls. To help mitigate this, make sure you have adequate air pressure in the tire to cause the tire to “sit up” on the tread so that the portion touching the ground is square and that the sidewall is not bulging. For extended storage, say over the winter, move your rig in a month or so, just enough that tires turn ¼ to ½ way around to relieve what sidewall bulge you have. Check the air pressure before you head out in the spring. Most tires lose a little pressure just sitting still over the winter.

If not pulled down snug will often vibrate open a little in the wind. Aftermarket vent covers give room for you to open the vent without letting in the rain and mitigate the vibration problem – even if you want a little air in the coach while you are going down the road.

Helps lube moving parts and keep seals and tires flexible, extending their life. Hitting the road is good for your rig and good for you.